Complete Guide to Door Hinges

Choosing the right door hinges is essential for the safety, performance and appearance of any door, whether it is in a domestic home, commercial building, or industrial unit. This guide from Window Hardware Store is designed for both trade professionals and DIY customers, covering everything from basic hinge types to fire door regulations and step-by-step replacement advice.

We supply a full range of door hinges for timber, uPVC and composite doors, including popular options such as butt hinges, parliament hinges and flag hinges. You will also find products from leading UK brands such as Yale, ERA, Mila, Avocet and others, suitable for trade and retail customers.

Door hinge types

All door hinges perform the same essential function: allowing the door to pivot reliably while carrying the door’s weight. However, different door constructions, materials and uses demand different hinge designs. Selecting the right type at the start saves time on site, reduces call-backs and avoids premature wear.

Anatomy of a door hinge

Most common door hinges share these basic components:

Leaves (or flaps) – the flat plates fixed to the door and the frame

Knuckle (or barrel) – the rounded section where the leaves meet and rotate

Pin – the rod through the knuckle that forms the pivot point

Bearings or washers – components that reduce friction and wear (depending on hinge type)

Understanding this basic structure makes it easier to identify what you already have and what you need to replace or upgrade.

Standard butt hinges

Butt hinges are the most common type used on timber doors in the UK. They consist of two rectangular leaves joined by a central knuckle, with the pin usually fixed in place.

Typical applications:

Internal timber doors (bedrooms, living rooms, bathrooms)

External timber doors (front doors, back doors, side doors)

Light commercial doors where usage is moderate

Common sizes (height x width of one leaf when open):

76 mm x 50 mm (often called 3" x 2") – lighter internal doors

100 mm x 75 mm (4" x 3") – standard internal and some external doors

102 mm x 76 mm – typical metric equivalent used on many fire doors

When measuring a butt hinge for replacement, lay it flat and measure:

Overall height (top to bottom of the leaf)

Overall width (from edge of one leaf to edge of the other, fully open)

Leaf width (half the overall width, from knuckle centre to edge)

Thickness of the leaf

Screw hole positions (distance from top/bottom and from edge to centre of hole)

Standard butt hinges are available with different bearing constructions:

Plain bearing (washered) – simple and cost-effective, suitable for many internal doors with low to medium use

Ball bearing – smoother operation and longer life, ideal for heavier doors or higher traffic areas

You can browse our full range of butt hinges to match existing installations or upgrade performance.

Ball bearing butt hinges

Ball bearing butt hinges look similar to standard butt hinges but incorporate ball bearings in the knuckle to reduce friction and wear. They are especially recommended for:

Fire doors (FD30 and FD60) where higher performance is required

Entrance doors with door closers fitted

High-traffic doors in commercial and public buildings

Common trade practice is to specify at least Grade 11 or Grade 13 ball bearing hinges (to BS EN 1935) on fire doors and heavily used doors. Stainless steel ball bearing hinges are also a good choice in humid or coastal environments.

Parliament hinges

Parliament hinges are a type of wide-throw butt hinge designed to swing the door clear of the frame and architrave. This is useful where you need the door to open a full 180 degrees or clear a thick carpet, deep reveal or internal shutter.

The key measurement on a parliament hinge is the projection – how far the hinge moves the door away from the frame when open. Typical projections include 76 mm, 102 mm and larger.

Common uses:

French doors opening back against a wall

Doors that must open fully against a deep architrave

Doors that need additional clearance across thick floor coverings

When replacing parliament hinges, match:

Hinge height (usually 100 mm or 125 mm)

Projection (distance from edge of frame leaf to edge of door leaf)

Leaf thickness and screw positions

You can view our selection of parliament hinges for both traditional and modern applications.

Flag hinges

Flag hinges are widely used on uPVC and many composite doors in the UK. They are called “flag” hinges because the leaf shape resembles a flag on a pole. Modern flag hinges usually provide three-dimensional adjustment so you can fine-tune:

Height (lifting or lowering the door)

Lateral position (moving the door closer to or further from the hinge side of the frame)

Compression (how tightly the door seals against the gaskets)

Typical applications:

uPVC front and back doors

Composite doors with multipoint locks

Some aluminium residential doors

Trade tip: Always match replacement flag hinges to the door system where possible. Many systems from Mila, Avocet, ERA and Yale have dedicated hinge designs, and using the correct pattern makes fitting and adjustment quicker and ensures compliance with any security testing (e.g. PAS 24, Document Q).

Key measurements for flag hinges:

Overall hinge height

Distance from the centre of the knuckle to the fixing screws on both door and frame sides

Fixing plate width and hole pattern

Handing (left-hand or right-hand, viewed from the hinge side)

Some flag hinges are fully reversible; others are handed, so check carefully before ordering.

Rising butt hinges

Rising butt hinges look similar to standard butt hinges but have a helical knuckle that lifts the door as it opens. As the door closes, it settles back down.

Uses:

Doors that need to clear a high threshold or thick carpet when opened

Situations where you want the door to self-close gently without a closer (e.g. some toilet or utility doors)

Trade note: Rising butt hinges are not suitable for fire doors or doors with door closers. They also require careful fitting to avoid binding.

Lift-off and removable pin hinges

Lift-off hinges and removable pin butt hinges allow the door to be removed easily without unscrewing the leaves. These are useful for:

Doors needing occasional removal for access (e.g. plant rooms)

Situations where you want quick removal for maintenance or decoration

Security consideration: Avoid using externally accessible lift-off hinges on outward-opening entrance doors unless additional security measures (such as hinge bolts) are fitted.

Concealed and invisible hinges

Concealed hinges sit within the thickness of the door and frame so that they are not visible when the door is closed. Commonly used on:

Modern flush doors and minimalist interiors

High-end residential and commercial projects

Many concealed hinges are fully adjustable in three dimensions, similar to flag hinges. Always check the door thickness and mortice depth requirements before ordering.

Piano (continuous) hinges

Piano or continuous hinges run the full height of the door or panel, providing even support along the entire edge. They are commonly used for:

Lightweight cupboard or wardrobe doors

Plant room doors or access panels

Doors with unusual proportions where spreading the load is beneficial

They are available in various lengths and can be cut to size on site (using appropriate tools and care).

Specialist external door hinges and security features

For external doors, especially those with enhanced security (PAS 24 or Secured by Design), you will often encounter specialist hinge designs:

Security butt hinges with integrated security lugs that engage into the frame

Dog-bolt compatible butt hinges to work with separate hinge bolts

Heavy-duty hinges for wide or particularly heavy entrance doors

Common uPVC and composite door systems using hinges from brands such as Mila, Avocet, ERA, Yale and SFS often incorporate anti-lift and anti-attack features. When replacing external door hinges, it is important to maintain these security features wherever possible.

Hinge materials and finishes

Door hinges are manufactured in various materials and finishes to suit different environments and aesthetics:

Mild steel – usually for internal use, often plated (zinc, brass, chrome, nickel)

Stainless steel (304 / 316) – ideal for fire doors, wet rooms, commercial settings and coastal areas

Solid brass – traditional look, often lacquered or polished; check suitability for fire doors

Aluminium – used more on lightweight or specialist doors and some uPVC systems

Finishes include satin stainless, polished stainless, satin chrome, polished chrome, brass, black, bronze and others. Match hinge finish to your door handles, locks and other ironmongery for a coordinated look.

Weight ratings

Correct hinge selection is not just about the type and appearance; it must safely support the door’s weight over its service life. Under-specifying hinges is a common cause of sagging doors, binding, squeaking and premature failure.

Understanding BS EN 1935 hinge grades

In the UK, most quality single-axis door hinges (including butt, parliament and some rising butt hinges) are classified to BS EN 1935. This standard assigns a performance grade based on:

Door mass the hinge can carry

Number of test cycles (durability)

Fire resistance suitability

Corrosion resistance

Grades typically used on doors include:

Grade 7 – up to 40 kg door mass

Grade 8 – up to 60 kg

Grade 9 – up to 80 kg

Grade 10 – up to 100 kg

Grade 11 – up to 120 kg

Grade 12 – up to 120 kg (for wider doors)

Grade 13 – up to 120 kg with higher durability and often used on fire doors

Most modern fire door butt hinges are Grade 11, 12 or 13. Look for the BS EN 1935 grade stamped on the hinge, along with the CE or UKCA mark and classification code.

Factors affecting required hinge capacity

When choosing hinges, consider more than just the bare door weight:

Door mass – including leaf, glazing, panels and any applied cladding

Door width – wider doors exert more leverage on hinges

Usage level – low (domestic), medium (office) or high (public building)

Door closer – adds load and increases cycle frequency

Environment – humid or external conditions can increase friction and wear

A light internal hollow-core door may only require Grade 7 or 8 hinges, while a solid core FD60 door with closer in a school or hospital will usually require Grade 11 or 13 ball bearing hinges.

Estimating door weight

If you do not know the door’s weight, you can estimate it based on construction and dimensions.

Approximate weights per square metre (for guidance only):

Hollow-core internal door: 12–18 kg/m²

Standard solid core laminated/ply door: 24–30 kg/m²

FD30 fire door (solid core): 30–35 kg/m²

FD60 fire door: 40–50 kg/m² or more

Example: A typical FD30 door 2040 mm x 826 mm (approx. 2.04 m x 0.826 m) has an area of about 1.68 m². At 32 kg/m², this gives roughly 54 kg. Add any glass or hardware and you might be close to 60 kg. In this case, three Grade 11 or 13 ball bearing hinges would be suitable (subject to manufacturer data).

Number of hinges required

The number of hinges affects load distribution and durability.

General guidance:

Internal lightweight doors: minimum two hinges, but three preferred for taller doors

Standard residential doors (full height): three hinges recommended

Fire doors: a minimum of three hinges is required by codes of practice and most test evidence

Very heavy or high-traffic doors: consider four hinges to spread the load

Spacing for three-hinge arrangements on a typical 2,040 mm high door:

Top hinge: 150–250 mm down from the top of the door

Bottom hinge: 200–250 mm up from the bottom of the door

Middle hinge: centrally between the top and bottom hinges

Always follow the door manufacturer’s guidance and any test evidence for fire doors.

Timber doors: typical hinge configurations

For standard domestic internal doors (around 35 mm thick, hollow core):

Use 2 or 3 plain bearing butt hinges sized 76 mm or 100 mm

Grade 7–9 is typically sufficient for light use

For heavier solid core internal doors (44 mm thick, non-fire-rated):

Use 3 ball bearing butt hinges, typically 100 mm or 102 mm

Grade 10–11 recommended, especially if a closer is fitted

For entrance doors (solid timber, often with glass and multipoint locks):

3 heavy-duty ball bearing butt hinges or security hinges

Grade 11 or above, stainless steel recommended

uPVC and composite doors: hinge capacity

uPVC and composite door systems typically use tested flag hinges rated for specific door weights. The door manufacturer or system supplier (such as Mila, ERA, Avocet, Yale or others) will specify:

Maximum door weight per hinge

Maximum door size

Minimum number of hinges (usually three)

Replacing these hinges like-for-like with the same specification ensures you maintain performance and security levels. When upgrading to triple glazing or heavier glass units, always check that the existing hinges are adequate for the increased weight.

Trade rules of thumb for hinge selection

Installers commonly use these practical rules (but always confirm with manufacturer data):

Three hinges on any door over 2,000 mm high

Use ball bearing butt hinges on any fire door or door with a closer

Use stainless steel hinges in bathrooms, kitchens, plant rooms and coastal areas

When in doubt, choose the higher grade rather than lower – the cost difference is small compared with avoiding call-backs

Fire door requirements

Fire doors in the UK must meet strict performance standards to help contain fire and smoke, protecting escape routes and buying time for occupants and fire services. The hinges are a critical component in this system and must be properly specified, installed and maintained.

Key UK regulations and standards

Relevant documents include:

Building Regulations Approved Document B – Fire Safety

BS EN 1634-1 – Fire resistance testing for doors and hardware

BS 8214 – Code of practice for fire door assemblies

BS EN 1935 – Single-axis hinges (performance classification including fire suitability)

In practice, fire door assemblies are tested as a complete set: door leaf, frame, hinges, latch/lock, closer and any glazing or ironmongery. The test evidence will specify the type and number of hinges permitted.

Hinge specification for FD30 and FD60 doors

Common requirements for fire door hinges include:

Minimum of three hinges per door leaf

Hinges tested and certified for fire use (FD30 or FD60 as applicable)

Steel or stainless steel construction with a melting point above 800°C

Compliant with BS EN 1935 and marked with CE or UKCA and classification code

Ball bearing or similarly high-performance construction

Many Grade 11–13 stainless steel butt hinges from reputable manufacturers are suitable for FD30 and FD60 applications, but you must always check:

Certification – look for evidence such as CERTIFIRE approval or equivalent

Tested use – ensure they are approved for the specific door type and rating

Never assume that any stainless hinge is automatically fire-rated; check the product’s documentation or consult your supplier.

Intumescent hinge pads

Intumescent hinge pads (or liners) are thin pads fitted between the hinge leaf and the door and/or frame. In a fire, they expand to seal gaps and protect the timber around the hinge.

Many fire door test reports require these pads as part of the approved assembly, particularly for FD60 doors. When replacing hinges on a fire door:

Check whether intumescent pads are present behind the existing hinges

Replace any damaged or missing pads with ones matching the hinge size

Use pads specifically designed for the hinge size and fire rating, such as products from our intumescent hinge pad range

Failing to reinstate intumescent pads where required can invalidate the fire door’s performance.

Fixings and screws on fire doors

Screws may seem minor, but they are critical to fire door performance.

Use the screws supplied with the hinge or those specified in test evidence

Typically, steel or stainless steel screws at least 32–40 mm long (or more for thicker doors)

All screw holes must be filled – no missing screws

Fixings must achieve full penetration into solid timber or suitable reinforcement

Do not use lightweight or mixed-metal screws of unknown specification on fire door hinges.

Common fire door hinge mistakes to avoid

Replacing certified hinges with non-fire-rated hinges because they “look similar”

Reducing three hinges to two for convenience

Omitting intumescent pads where test evidence requires them

Mixing hinge types or brands on the same door leaf

Using brass or aluminium hinges where steel or stainless is required

Leaving screws out or using undersized fixings

On sites where Yale, ERA, Mila, Avocet or other multipoint locking systems are used, ensure any replacement hinges on fire-rated entrance doors maintain the certification of the entire doorset. When in doubt, consult the door manufacturer or responsible person.

Fire door maintenance and inspection

Under UK fire safety legislation, responsible persons must ensure fire doors are maintained in efficient working order. Regular inspections should check:

All hinges are present, secure and undamaged

No worn knuckles, excessive play or visible deformation

All screws are tight and present

The door closes fully and latches from any open position (with the closer attached)

No significant gaps at the hinge side (typically 2–4 mm is acceptable)

Intumescent seals and pads are intact

Where issues are found, use certified replacement door hinges and components that match the original specification as closely as possible.

Adjusting hinges

Even well-installed doors can move over time due to building settlement, changes in humidity, or wear and tear. Properly adjusting door hinges can restore smooth operation, eliminate draughts and prevent lock or latch misalignment.

Tools commonly required

Screwdrivers (Pozi or Phillips, depending on the screws)

Allen (hex) keys for flag hinge adjustments

Spirit level

Wedges or door lifter to support the door

Sharp chisel and mallet (for timber hinge adjustments)

Lubricant suitable for hinges (light oil or silicone-based)

Diagnosing common door hinge problems

Before adjusting, identify the actual cause of the problem.

Door rubbing on the floor or threshold – may indicate sagging hinges or packers compressing

Door catching at the top corner opposite the hinges – often caused by dropped hinges

Gaps uneven along the latch side – may require lateral adjustment or re-positioning

Multipoint lock difficult to engage – door may not be pulling tight onto seals (compression issue, especially on uPVC/composite)

Squeaking noises – usually a lubrication issue or worn bearings

Check screw tightness first; loose screws are a very common cause of sagging doors.

Adjusting butt hinges on timber doors

Minor adjustments can often be made without major carpentry work.

To lift a slightly dropped door (timber, butt hinges):

Support the door with a wedge or door lifter under the latch side

Loosen the screws on the top hinge slightly

Tap the hinge leaf gently upwards in the frame mortice if there is play

Tighten the screws while the door is supported

If there is no room in the existing mortice, you may need to:

Remove the top hinge leaf from the frame

Carefully deepen or extend the mortice upwards using a sharp chisel

Refit the hinge so the door sits slightly higher

To move the door laterally (towards or away from the hinge side):

Loosen the screws on one or more hinges

Insert thin packing behind the hinge leaf (for example, hinge packers or folded card as a temporary measure) to move the door away from the hinge side

Or remove existing packing to bring the door closer to the frame

Re-tighten screws, ensuring the door gaps are even

Trade tip: Use plastic hinge packers or shims for permanent adjustments rather than improvised materials that can compress over time.

Adjusting flag hinges on uPVC and composite doors

Flag hinges usually have dedicated adjustment points, often hidden under caps. Exact methods vary by brand (Mila, Avocet, ERA, Yale and others), but the principles are similar.

Typical adjustment points:

Vertical adjustment (height) – usually via a grub screw on the top of the hinge or behind a cover, adjusted with an Allen key

Lateral adjustment (side-to-side) – typically on the frame fixing part of the hinge, again with an Allen key

Compression adjustment (how tightly the door seals against gaskets) – usually a screw that moves the door leaf in or out relative to the frame

Basic procedure for adjusting a uPVC or composite door with flag hinges:

Identify the brand and type of hinge if possible; refer to manufacturer instructions where available

Support the door leaf during major adjustments to avoid strain on fixings

Remove any plastic covers to access adjustment screws

Make small adjustments (quarter turns) and test the door after each change

Adjust all hinges evenly; for example, raise or lower all three by the same amount to avoid twisting

Signs of correct adjustment:

Even gap around the door (typically about 3–5 mm)

Lock points engage smoothly without needing to lift the handle excessively

Door seals make contact all around but are not overly compressed

Trade note: Over-compressing the seals may make the door hard to close and can damage gaskets in the long term.

Quietening squeaky hinges

Squeaking hinges are usually caused by friction between metal surfaces due to lack of lubrication or contamination.

For standard butt hinges:

Carefully apply a small amount of light machine oil or silicone spray to the top of the knuckle, allowing it to work down the pin

Open and close the door several times to distribute the lubricant

Wipe away any excess to avoid staining paintwork or flooring

For fire doors, check any restrictions in the fire door maintenance guidance; some oils may not be recommended. Dry lubricants such as graphite can be useful in sensitive environments.

Avoid heavy greases that can attract dust and grit, accelerating wear.

When to replace instead of adjust

Adjustment will not solve all problems. Indicators that hinges should be replaced include:

Visible wear in the knuckle (oval-shaped holes, excessive play)

Cracked leaves or visible bending

Missing or damaged bearing components (on ball bearing hinges)

Hinges undersized for the door weight (repeated sagging or failure)

Corrosion, especially on external or bathroom doors

In these cases, select suitable replacement door hinges with an appropriate weight rating and material, and follow the replacement guidance in the next section.

Replacement guide

Replacing door hinges is a common task in both refurbishment and day-to-day maintenance. Doing it correctly ensures smooth operation, compliance with fire and security requirements, and a neat appearance. This section covers how to identify existing hinges, measure accurately and carry out replacements safely.

Identifying your existing hinges

Before ordering replacements, determine:

Hinge type – standard butt hinge, parliament hinge, flag hinge, rising butt, concealed, etc.

Material – mild steel, stainless steel, brass, aluminium

Fire rating – check for markings such as CE/UKCA and EN 1935 with a fire symbol or classification

Brand – sometimes stamped on the hinge (particularly on flag hinges and some premium butt hinges)

Look for markings on the hinge knuckle or leaves. Typical fire-rated hinges may be stamped with:

CE or UKCA mark

Four-digit certification body number

EN 1935 and grade (e.g. 1121 or similar classification string)

For uPVC and composite doors, examine the shape of the hinge and cover caps. Many Mila, Avocet, ERA and Yale flag hinges have distinctive designs; matching these can save time on installation and adjustment.

Measuring hinges accurately

Accurate measurements are essential to minimise carpentry work and ensure correct operation.

Measuring butt hinges (timber doors)

Remove one hinge leaf if needed to measure clearly, or measure with the door open and hinge flat.

Height – measure from the top to the bottom of the hinge leaf (usually 76 mm, 100 mm, 102 mm, 125 mm, etc.)

Open width – measure across both leaves when the hinge is fully open (for example, 50 mm + 50 mm = 100 mm total)

Leaf width – half of the open width (e.g. 50 mm per leaf)

Leaf thickness – use callipers if available; typical thicknesses range from around 2 mm to 3 mm

Screw hole positions – measure from the top of the hinge to each screw hole centre, and from the leaf edge to the screw hole centre

Matching the screw pattern closely reduces the need to drill new holes or plug old ones.

Measuring parliament hinges

For parliament hinges, in addition to the height and leaf details, measure the projection.

Height – as for standard butt hinges (e.g. 100 mm, 125 mm)

Projection – measure from the face of the frame leaf (where it sits on the frame edge) to the outermost edge of the door leaf when the hinge is fully open (e.g. 76 mm, 102 mm)

Leaf widths and screw positions – as for butt hinges

Select a replacement with the same or very similar projection to ensure the door clears architraves, reveals or other obstructions.

Measuring flag hinges (uPVC and composite doors)

Flag hinges are more complex, so photographs can be very helpful when selecting replacements. Typical measurements include:

Overall hinge height (top to bottom, including cover caps)

Width of the frame-side fixing plate

Width of the door-side fixing plate

Distance from the centre of the pivot (knuckle) to the main fixing screws on each side

Fixing hole patterns – number of screws and spacing

Also note:

Handing – is the hinge on the left or right when viewed from the hinge side?

Colour/finish – white, brown, polished chrome, satin chrome, gold, black, etc.

If you are unsure, compare your measurements and photographs with the options in our flag hinge section or contact our team for guidance.

Like-for-like replacement versus upgrades

You can either replace hinges on a like-for-like basis or use the opportunity to upgrade.

Like-for-like advantages:

Minimal carpentry work if sizes and screw positions match

Easier on finished and decorated doors

Lower risk on fire doors where exact specification matters

Upgrade options:

Change from plain bearing to ball bearing butt hinges for smoother operation and durability

Switch to stainless steel for better corrosion resistance in bathrooms, kitchens or coastal properties

Add security butt hinges with integrated security lugs for external doors

On fire doors, any upgrade must be compatible with the door’s test evidence. When in doubt, choose a hinge model specifically listed for fire door use and ideally matching the original type.

Replacing butt hinges on timber doors (step-by-step)

For non-fire-rated internal doors, replacing butt hinges is a straightforward DIY task for most people with basic tools. For fire doors or external doors, extra care is required.

Basic method (internal timber door, like-for-like hinge):

Open the door and support it underneath with wedges or a door lifter

With the door supported, remove the screws from the bottom hinge first, then the middle, then the top, leaving one screw in the top hinge until last to prevent sudden movement

Remove the old hinges

Offer up the new hinge to the existing mortice recess

Check fit – the new hinge leaf should sit flush with the door edge and frame; trim the mortice with a chisel if necessary

Mark and drill new pilot holes if the screw pattern differs

Fix the top hinge first (door to frame), then the middle and bottom hinges, checking the door alignment as you go

Remove wedges and test the door for smooth operation and correct gaps

Trade tip: Where existing screw holes are worn, plug them with hardwood or suitable repair compound before re-drilling to ensure strong fixings.

Replacing hinges on fire doors

For fire doors, follow a more controlled process:

Confirm the door rating (FD30, FD60) and existing hinge specification

Select certified fire-rated hinges equal or superior in grade and fire performance

Obtain matching intumescent hinge pads if required by test evidence

Support the door securely; due to weight, two people are recommended

Replace one hinge at a time to maintain door location where possible

Fit intumescent pads behind hinge leaves as required

Use all specified fixings and ensure they penetrate into solid timber or reinforcing

After replacement, test the door with the closer connected – it must close fully and latch from any open position

Record the work done as part of the fire door maintenance log, including hinge model and date of replacement.

Replacing flag hinges on uPVC and composite doors

Due to the weight of modern uPVC and composite doors and the interaction with multipoint locks, replacement of flag hinges requires care. For many trade installers this is routine, but DIYers may wish to work with a second person.

General procedure:

Open the door and support it securely at the bottom with wedges or a door stand

Note the existing hinge positions and any packing pieces used

Remove plastic covers to expose fixing screws

Loosen and remove the screws from one hinge at a time, starting with the middle hinge

Offer up the new hinge in the same position; use existing fixing holes where possible

Secure lightly at first so you can adjust later

Repeat for remaining hinges

Once all new hinges are installed, adjust for height, lateral position and compression following the manufacturer’s guidance

After replacement and adjustment:

Check that the door closes smoothly and evenly

Test operation of the multipoint lock – lift handle and turn key; there should be no undue resistance

Check gasket compression with a slip of paper – it should be held but not crushed

Using known brands such as Mila, Avocet, ERA or Yale flag hinges matched to your door system can simplify this process.

Dealing with old or damaged screw holes

Repeated hinge changes or poor fixings can leave timber frames and door edges with stripped screw holes. To ensure a secure fix:

Fill damaged holes with glued hardwood dowels or suitable wood repair compound

Allow adhesive or filler to cure fully

Re-drill pilot holes of the correct size for the new screws (not too large)

Increase screw length if needed to reach sound timber

On uPVC frames, avoid over-tightening screws which can strip plastics; consider using frame fixings compatible with the frame’s reinforcement where appropriate.

Related hardware and accessories

When replacing hinges, it is often sensible to review related items at the same time:

Screws and fixings – corrosion-resistant, matching finish where visible; see our screws and fixings category

Hinge bolts / dog bolts – to improve security on outward-opening doors

Intumescent strips and hinge pads – to maintain fire door integrity

Door closers – ensure compatibility with the door weight and hinge capacity

By selecting suitable door hinges and related components from Window Hardware Store, you can ensure long-lasting, compliant and smooth operation for any type of door, whether in a domestic property, a commercial office, or a public building.