Complete Guide to Wedge Gaskets

Wedge gaskets are a small but crucial component in modern double-glazed windows and doors. They form a tight seal between the glass unit and the frame, helping to keep warm air in, draughts and rain out, and your glazing secure and stable in the sash.

Whether you are a trade installer, maintenance contractor, or a DIY homeowner repairing your own windows, choosing and fitting the correct wedge gasket (also known as a window wedge seal or glazing gasket) is essential for achieving long-lasting performance that meets UK expectations for weather resistance and energy efficiency.

This guide from Window Hardware Store will walk you through the key points you need to know, from gasket profiles and measurement to replacement and installation, with practical advice gathered from the UK glazing trade.

For a quick look at available sizes and profiles, you can browse our full wedge gaskets category at any time.

1. Wedge gasket profiles

1.1 What is a wedge gasket?

A wedge gasket is a compressible strip, usually made from EPDM or TPE rubber, that is pushed between the glass unit and the window or door frame to create a secure, weather-tight seal. It is widely used in uPVC and aluminium systems with externally or internally beaded glazing.

The gasket is called a “wedge” because its cross-section is typically triangular or tapered. When it is pushed into the glazing pocket, it wedges the glass firmly against the opposite side of the frame and against the glazing beads. This:

Prevents rattling or glass movement

Improves weather sealing and draught-proofing

Reduces water ingress and wind noise

Supports the glass unit evenly around the perimeter

In many window and door systems, the wedge gasket works in combination with other seals (such as bubble gaskets or brush seals) to achieve overall compliance with standards like BS 6375 (Performance of windows and doors) and BS EN 14351-1 (Windows and doors – Product standard).

1.2 Typical applications in UK windows and doors

Wedge gaskets are most commonly found in:

uPVC casement windows (internally or externally beaded)

uPVC tilt and turn windows

uPVC residential doors and French doors

Aluminium casement windows and commercial systems

Aluminium shopfronts and curtain wall glazing

Some timber windows with proprietary glazing systems

Many of the window systems installed across the UK by fabricators working with Yale, ERA, Mila, Avocet and other hardware brands use wedge gaskets as standard in their sash and frame designs.

1.3 Cross-section shapes and profiles

Although they all perform a similar function, wedge gaskets come in a wide variety of profiles. The most common cross-section features include:

A tapered or triangular “wedge” section that compresses against the glass

One or more barbs or fins that grip into the groove (kerf) in the frame

A flat base or “foot” that sits in the glazing channel

Occasionally a hollow core, to improve compression and recovery

Some popular profile types include:

1.3.1 Standard triangular wedge gasket

This is the classic profile found in many uPVC systems. It has:

A triangular head that compresses against the glass

A narrow barb that pushes into the frame groove

Often a slightly rounded outer edge for easier insertion

These gaskets are commonly used in white or black EPDM and are available in many different sizes to suit various profile systems. A typical example in our range would be a standard EPDM wedge gasket 3mm–6mm suitable for common 24mm double-glazed units.

1.3.2 Double-barb wedge gasket

Some modern uPVC and aluminium systems use wedge gaskets with two barbs for increased grip in the frame. The double barbs help prevent the gasket working loose over time, especially in larger sashes or high-traffic door sets.

Double-barb designs are frequently used in commercial aluminium glazing where higher wind loads and more demanding performance requirements apply under BS 6375 and local building exposure conditions.

1.3.3 Hollow wedge gasket

In some profiles, the wedge head has a hollow core. This creates a softer, more compressible seal which can be helpful where:

The glazing tolerance is variable

The frame has slight distortion

Extra movement is expected due to wind loading or thermal expansion

Hollow wedge gaskets can offer better long-term compression set resistance, maintaining a more consistent seal even after years of opening and closing.

1.3.4 Co-extruded wedge gasket

Co-extruded wedge gaskets combine two different materials in one profile, such as:

A firm base for secure fixing in the frame

A softer, more flexible sealing face against the glass

This design helps with both secure retention and effective sealing, and is often used in premium systems where acoustic or thermal performance is a priority.

1.4 Materials: EPDM vs TPE and others

The material of the wedge gasket is just as important as its profile. Most modern gaskets are made from:

1.4.1 EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer)

EPDM is the most widely used material for glazing gaskets in the UK because it offers:

Excellent resistance to UV light and ozone

Good flexibility over a wide temperature range

Long service life (often 15–25 years in typical conditions)

Stable performance in wet conditions, ideal for the UK climate

EPDM gaskets are commonly used in uPVC and aluminium windows and doors that need to maintain a reliable weather seal over many years, in line with the expectations of BS EN 14351-1.

1.4.2 TPE (Thermoplastic Elastomer)

TPE gaskets are also popular, particularly in more complex co-extruded profiles. Their advantages include:

Good processability for consistent shapes and finishes

Available in a range of hardnesses for different applications

Generally good weather and UV resistance (quality-dependent)

Some TPE compounds may not be as durable as high-grade EPDM in harsh conditions, so it is important to source from reputable suppliers and match replacements to the original specification where possible.

1.4.3 Other materials

Although less common in standard residential windows, other materials can occasionally be found:

Silicone-based gaskets for high-temperature or specialist applications

Neoprene in some older aluminium systems

PVC-based gaskets in legacy or low-cost profiles (often prone to hardening and shrinkage over time)

When replacing gaskets in existing installations, it is generally advisable to select modern EPDM or high-quality TPE replacements from ranges such as our EPDM wedge gaskets to improve longevity and performance.

1.5 Colours and aesthetic considerations

Most UK window and door wedge gaskets are either:

Black – the most common option, suits most uPVC and aluminium finishes

White – used in white uPVC frames to blend with the profile

Grey – increasingly common in modern aluminium and anthracite-coloured uPVC systems

On externally beaded windows, the gasket may be slightly visible from the outside, so colour choice can impact the overall appearance of the install. Black EPDM remains the standard choice for durability and UV resistance.

1.6 System-specific and universal gaskets

Many original fabricators use system-specific gaskets designed to match a particular uPVC or aluminium profile system. Over time, these can be superseded, re-designed, or discontinued. For replacement work you will often choose between:

System-specific replacement gaskets (matched by profile code and drawing)

Universal or compatible gaskets (matched by dimensions and fit)

Professional installers will often keep a stock of the most common “universal” wedge gaskets that suit multiple frame types, as well as a selection of system-specific profiles for regular customers or housing associations.

2. When to replace

2.1 Typical gasket lifespan

In the UK climate, a good-quality EPDM wedge gasket can reasonably be expected to last 15–25 years, depending on exposure. Factors that shorten gasket life include:

South-facing or coastal exposure with intense UV and salt spray

Low-grade PVC or rubber compounds that harden over time

Poor initial installation, causing over-compression or stretching

Excess movement in the frame due to structural issues

Once a gasket has lost its elasticity or shape, it cannot provide a reliable seal and should be replaced to maintain performance and comfort in the property.

2.2 Visible signs that a wedge gasket needs replacing

Check your existing wedge gaskets for the following signs of deterioration:

Cracking or splitting along the surface

Hard, brittle feel instead of soft and flexible

Shrinkage causing the gasket to pull back from the corners

Gaps between gasket and glass or frame

Discolouration or chalky surface (often on older PVC-based gaskets)

Any of these issues can undermine the seal and indicate it is time to replace the gasket with a new profile from our replacement wedge gasket range.

2.3 Performance symptoms: draughts, leaks and noise

You may also notice performance-related symptoms such as:

Draughts around the edges of the glass, particularly on windy days

Water leaks or damp spots at the bottom of the frame

Condensation forming at the glass edge inside the frame

Increased external noise due to poor acoustic sealing

Glass rattling or movement when you close the sash or door

Before assuming the double-glazed unit itself has failed, inspect the wedge gasket and other seals. In many cases, renewing the gaskets restores the original performance without the cost of a new glass unit.

2.4 Safety and security considerations

Wedge gaskets also contribute to security by helping to clamp the glass in place. On modern uPVC windows with multi-point locks (from brands like Yale, ERA, Mila, and Avocet), the combination of secure glazing and locking is key to meeting current expectations under Approved Document Q (Security) where it applies to new dwellings.

Signs of concern include:

Excessive glass movement when pushing from inside or outside

Beads that can be easily flexed or prised due to loose gaskets

Large gaps between glass and gasket, especially at corners

In older installations, renewing the wedge gasket can make the glazing more resistant to attack, especially when combined with appropriate glazing packers and secure beads.

2.5 Compliance and building performance

Although there is no requirement in Building Regulations to replace gaskets at a fixed interval, the overall performance of windows and doors is covered in several Approved Documents (notably Part L – Conservation of fuel and power, and Part F – Ventilation). Poorly sealing windows and doors can contribute to excessive heat loss and air leakage, undermining the intended performance of the building fabric.

For landlords, local authorities, and social housing providers, keeping gasket seals in good condition is an important part of meeting obligations under the Homes (Fitness for Human Habitation) Act and maintaining EPC ratings. Routine inspection and targeted replacement of failing wedge gaskets can be a cost-effective maintenance strategy.

2.6 DIY vs professional: when to call an installer

Replacing wedge gaskets is often within the capability of a competent DIYer, especially on standard uPVC windows at ground floor level. However, you should consider using a professional glazing installer when:

The windows are at height or difficult to access safely

The glass units are large or heavy (e.g. large patio doors)

The beads are very tight or fragile and risk damage

The frames are part of a fire door or fire-resisting screen (special requirements)

You are unsure about glass type (e.g. safety glazing) or structural packers

A professional will have appropriate tools, glazing suckers, knowledge of BS 8213-4 (relevant guidance on the survey and installation of windows and doorsets) and experience to avoid damaging frames or glass while replacing gaskets.

3. Measuring tips

3.1 Why accurate measurement matters

Getting the right size and profile for a wedge gasket is critical. If the gasket is too small, it won’t seal properly. If it is too large, it may be impossible to fit or may bow the glass and stress the unit. Taking a few careful measurements will help you identify a compatible replacement from our wedge gasket range.

3.2 Tools you will find useful

For accurate measuring, we recommend:

Digital calipers (0.1mm resolution) – ideal for gasket and groove dimensions

Steel rule or tape measure – for general checks

A magnifying glass or good lighting – for examining profile details

Sharp knife or scissors – for cutting a clean sample of old gasket

Pen and paper or a phone camera – to note measurements and take photos

3.3 Remove a sample of the existing gasket

To measure correctly, remove a short length (around 100–150mm) of the old wedge gasket from an accessible area:

Gently prise one end out of the groove using a blunt plastic tool or a small flat screwdriver wrapped in tape

Pull out enough gasket to cut a clean cross-section with a sharp knife

Avoid stretching the sample as you remove it, as this can distort measurements

Keep the sample piece safe – you can compare it directly with product images and profile drawings when selecting a replacement.

3.4 Key dimensions to measure

There are four main measurements to consider when matching a wedge gasket:

3.4.1 Overall height of the wedge

This is the distance from the base (that sits in the frame) to the highest point of the wedge that contacts the glass.

Place the sample on a flat surface

Use digital calipers to measure the height in millimetres (e.g. 7.5mm)

Measure at several points to check for consistent size (older gaskets may be slightly compressed)

This height roughly corresponds to how much the gasket will “wedge” the glass towards the beads. A typical uPVC window might use wedge gaskets between about 5mm and 10mm high, depending on frame system and glass thickness (e.g. 24mm, 28mm, 32mm units).

3.4.2 Base width (foot width)

This is the width of the part of the gasket that sits in the groove, excluding any barbs.

Measure across the base from one side to the other (e.g. 3.0mm or 4.5mm)

Check that this matches or is slightly smaller than the frame groove width

If the base is too wide, the gasket will be difficult or impossible to insert properly.

3.4.3 Barb width and shape

The barb is the small protrusion that locks into the groove. Measure:

Overall width of the barb from tip to tip (e.g. 2.5mm)

Approximate height of the barb (how far it extends from the base)

Whether there is one barb or two, and their spacing

Barb size must match the frame groove so it can grip without tearing or becoming loose. Our product listings for replacement wedge gaskets show clear section drawings with barb dimensions to help you compare.

3.4.4 Angle or radius of the wedge face

While harder to quantify with basic tools, it helps to note:

Is the wedge face straight or slightly curved?

Does it have a distinct angle (e.g. approximately 45°) or a softer taper?

Is the top surface flat, ridged, or slightly rounded?

Matching the general shape will improve fit and seal against the glass.

3.5 Measuring the frame groove and glass clearance

If the old gasket is missing, badly distorted, or clearly not original, you may need to measure the frame directly.

3.5.1 Groove width (kerf width)

Use calipers to measure the width of the groove in the frame where the gasket fits

Typical values might be 3mm, 4mm or 5mm

Choose a gasket with a base and barb designed for that groove size

3.5.2 Gap between glass and frame

The wedge gasket must fill the gap between the edge of the glass unit and the frame wall opposite the beads:

With the beads removed and the glass supported on packers, measure the distance from the glass edge to the frame surface where the wedge will sit

Subtract approximately 0.5–1.0mm to allow for compression (e.g. if the gap is 8mm, a 7mm–7.5mm wedge height may be appropriate)

For a typical 24mm double-glazed unit in a uPVC frame, you might expect a clearance of around 6–9mm depending on profile design.

3.6 Accounting for compression and tolerance

Wedge gaskets are designed to compress slightly when installed. To ensure a good seal:

Aim for the installed gasket to be compressed by 10–30% of its free height

Too little compression – poor seal, draughts and movement

Too much compression – difficult fitting, possible glass bowing and unit stress

UK glazing systems are typically designed to accommodate manufacturing tolerances in glass thickness and frame dimensions. Using a high-quality, appropriately sized wedge gasket ensures those tolerances are taken up correctly without overstressing the glass unit or frame.

3.7 Using sample packs and profile matching services

If you maintain multiple properties or are a trade installer, it may be worthwhile to keep a small “sample board” of different wedge gasket profiles and sizes. Alternatively, you can:

Send a physical sample of your old gasket to a specialist for matching

Use high-resolution photos and measurements to compare with online drawings

Order a short trial length (e.g. 1–2m) of a candidate gasket to test in one sash before committing to a full property

Window Hardware Store can assist by providing detailed dimensioned drawings on product pages and offering sample lengths of commonly used glazing gaskets for trial fitting.

4. Installation guide

4.1 General safety and preparation

Before you start replacing wedge gaskets, take time to prepare and work safely:

Wear safety glasses and gloves – especially when handling glass

Use glazing suckers on larger units to maintain control

Ensure access equipment (steps, towers) is stable and suitable

Check whether the glass is toughened, laminated, or standard – safety glass is required in critical locations under Approved Document K

Work with a second person for larger or higher-risk units

On fire doors or fire-resisting screens, do not alter glazing details (including gaskets and seals) without referring to the original test evidence and manufacturer’s instructions, as this could compromise fire performance.

4.2 Removing beads and existing wedge gaskets

4.2.1 Bead removal

In many uPVC windows and doors, the wedge gasket is on the opposite side of the glass from the beads. The sequence depends on whether the window is internally or externally beaded:

Internally beaded uPVC – beads inside, wedge gasket usually outside

Externally beaded uPVC – beads outside, wedge gasket usually inside

Aluminium systems – arrangements vary; check carefully

To remove the beads:

Start with the shortest bead (usually the top or a side)

Use a stiff plastic packer or a specialist bead removal tool to lever gently between the bead and frame

Work along the bead until it pops free from the clips

Remove the remaining beads in sequence, noting their positions for reinstallation

Beads can be brittle, particularly on older uPVC. Avoid using metal tools directly against visible surfaces to prevent damage.

4.2.2 Removing the old wedge gasket

Once the beads are off and the glass is supported on packers, remove the old gasket:

Identify the start/end point, often at a corner

Pull the gasket out of the groove by hand; use a plastic tool if necessary

Remove any debris, adhesive, or remnants from the groove

Inspect the frame groove for damage or distortion

Clean the groove with a damp cloth to remove dirt and ensure smooth insertion of the new gasket.

4.3 Checking and adjusting glazing packers

Before fitting the new wedge gasket, check the glazing packers supporting the unit:

Verify packers are correctly located (often at the quarter points along the bottom, and as per manufacturer’s guidance)

Ensure the glass is square and central in the opening

Check for adequate drainage and ventilation in the frame rebate, as required under BS 8213-4 guidance

Incorrect or missing packers can lead to glass movement, poor operation of hinges and locks (including Yale, ERA, Mila and Avocet systems), and stress on the sealed unit. Rectify packer positions before fitting the gasket.

4.4 Cutting and preparing the new wedge gasket

Measure each side of the glass opening to cut lengths of gasket:

Add approximately 10–20mm extra per side to allow for compression at corners

Cut the gasket square for butt joints or at 45° for mitred corners (depending on the original detail and frame design)

A sharp pair of scissors or a fine-bladed knife will give a clean cut

Do not stretch the gasket when cutting; keep it in its natural, relaxed state.

4.5 Fitting sequence: where to start

The fitting sequence can affect how evenly the glass is wedged. A common and effective method is:

Fit the bottom gasket length first – this takes the weight/support of the glass

Fit the sides next – pushing the glass gently towards the beads side as you go

Fit the top gasket last – this closes the frame and ensures even pressure

On tall windows or doors, it is sometimes beneficial to fit the top first, then sides, then bottom, depending on the original system design. When in doubt, mirror the original factory sequence if you noted it during removal.

4.6 Inserting the gasket into the groove

To insert the wedge gasket:

Start at a corner, pressing the base and barb firmly into the groove

Use your thumbs or a roller tool to push the gasket fully home along the length

Avoid stretching the gasket – let it relax and feed naturally

At the corners, gently compress the gasket without creating sharp kinks

Some installers use a small amount of silicone-free glazing lubricant or a mild soap solution to reduce friction when fitting, especially on long runs. Avoid petroleum-based products, which can attack rubber compounds.

4.7 Achieving correct compression

As you fit the gasket, watch for signs of correct compression:

The gasket should sit snugly against the glass, without obvious gaps

The glass should feel firm in the frame, with no rattle

The gasket should not be so tight that the glass visibly bows

If the gasket feels excessively tight, double-check that:

You have the correct profile and height for the frame

The packers are correctly positioned and not forcing the glass out of square

The groove is clear and not obstructing full insertion

If the gasket is clearly too loose even when fully inserted, you may need a slightly larger profile from our wedge gasket selection.

4.8 Refitting glazing beads

Once the gasket is in place and you are satisfied with the fit:

Offer up the longest bead first (often the bottom or sides, depending on system)

Engage one end into the bead clip and work along, pushing firmly with the heel of your hand or a rubber mallet with a protective block

Listen for a clean “click” as the bead snaps fully into place

Repeat with the remaining beads, ensuring correct positioning (label them if necessary during removal)

Check that the beads sit flush all the way along. If a bead will not fully engage, do not force it excessively; instead, investigate:

Is the glass properly seated on packers?

Is the gasket over-sized and pushing the glass too far towards the beads?

Has any debris or old gasket material been left in the groove?

4.9 Final checks and adjustments

After fitting the beads:

Check the operation of the window or door – open and close several times

Ensure the sash does not bind and that locking points engage smoothly

Visually inspect the gasket line for continuity and compression

Check externally for any visible gaps or irregularities

On a windy day, you can run your hand around the internal edge of the glass to feel for draughts. Alternatively, a smoke pencil or a thin piece of tissue can help detect air movement around the gasket area.

4.10 Common installation problems and solutions

4.10.1 Gasket keeps popping out of groove

Cause: Barb too small or groove worn/damaged

Solution: Select a profile with a larger or dual barb; repair damaged grooves if possible; ensure groove is clean and dry

4.10.2 Glass bows or distorts after fitting

Cause: Wedge gasket too large or over-compressed; packers incorrectly positioned

Solution: Re-check packers; if necessary, select a slightly smaller wedge height to reduce stress on the glass

4.10.3 Persistent draughts after replacement

Cause: Wrong gasket type; poor compression at corners; other seals (e.g. sash weatherseals) are failing

Solution: Double-check gasket profile and size; ensure corners are well fitted; inspect frame and sash seals including any bubble or brush gaskets and replace as needed

4.10.4 Difficult to refit beads

Cause: Gasket oversize; glass not fully seated; beads slightly distorted

Solution: Confirm glass is properly positioned on packers; check gasket size; carefully warm and straighten distorted beads if required

5. Comparing gasket types

5.1 Wedge gaskets vs other glazing gaskets

In modern UK windows and doors, wedge gaskets are just one part of the overall sealing system. It helps to understand how they compare with other common gasket types.

5.1.1 Wedge gasket (glazing wedge)

Function: Wedges the glass against beads or frame to form a tight, structural seal

Typical location: Between glass edge and frame on one side (usually opposite the beads)

Common in: uPVC and aluminium casements, tilt and turn, doors

Wedge gaskets are primarily responsible for holding the glass firmly in place and closing the gap between the unit and frame.

5.1.2 Bubble gasket

Function: Forms an airtight and watertight compression seal between sash and frame

Typical location: Around the sash perimeter, sealing the opening/closing interface

Common in: uPVC windows and doors

Bubble gaskets are soft, tubular seals that compress when the sash is closed. They prevent draughts and water ingress around the moving part of the window, not the glass perimeter. You can explore options in our dedicated range of bubble and flipper seals (for example, via related categories to our wedge gasket products).

5.1.3 Flipper / fin gasket

Function: Acts as a flexible fin that wipes and seals between two surfaces

Typical location: Between sash and frame, or between beads and glass

Common in: Certain aluminium and proprietary systems

Flipper gaskets provide good sealing with relatively low closing force, which can be important for large sashes or for compliance with accessibility requirements in Approved Document M (e.g. for ease of operation).

5.1.4 Brush / pile seals

Function: Reduces draughts and friction in sliding systems

Typical location: Sliding window and door tracks, around sashes

Common in: Sliding patio doors, vertical sliders, commercial doors

Brush seals are not generally used for glazing retention, but work alongside wedge gaskets in some door systems to provide complete weatherstripping.

5.2 Material performance comparison

5.2.1 EPDM vs TPE wedge gaskets

When choosing between EPDM and TPE wedge gaskets, consider:

EPDM – superior long-term UV, ozone, and weather resistance; ideal for exposed locations and harsher climates

TPE – good performance and more versatile manufacturing, but quality varies with formulation; usually fine for standard domestic use

For most UK applications where longevity and low maintenance are priorities, EPDM remains the preferred option, especially for replacement work where you want a “fit and forget” solution.

5.2.2 Solid vs hollow and co-extruded designs

Solid wedge – robust and simple; suited to consistent rebates and standard tolerances

Hollow wedge – improved compressibility and recovery; useful where tolerances are larger or where frames have slight distortion

Co-extruded – combines firm fixing with soft sealing; often used in higher-specification systems for superior acoustic and thermal performance

For retrofits, a solid EPDM wedge gasket is usually sufficient. For new builds aiming for low U-values and good acoustic performance (e.g. in urban locations), system-specific co-extruded gaskets may be part of a tested package.

5.3 Application-specific considerations

5.3.1 Residential uPVC windows

In typical UK uPVC casement windows, the glazing system is designed around a specific wedge gasket profile. When replacing:

Match the profile as closely as possible, using your old gasket sample and measurements

Consider upgrading to a modern EPDM profile if the original was PVC-based

Ensure the wedge gasket works in harmony with existing bubble gaskets and hardware (hinges and multi-point locks from brands such as Yale, ERA, Mila, Avocet)

Well-chosen wedge gaskets can significantly improve draught-proofing and customer comfort, particularly in older installations.

5.3.2 Aluminium windows and doors

Aluminium systems often have more complex glazing details and can be more sensitive to gasket choice:

Check whether the system uses a dry-glazed or wet-glazed method (silicone or tape may also be present)

Verify if the wedge gasket works alongside pressure plates and caps (common in curtain walling)

Pay close attention to thermal break locations; the gasket must not compromise the thermal barrier

When in doubt, refer to the original system manufacturer’s literature and choose a profile that closely matches both shape and material performance.

5.3.3 Doors and high-use openings

In residential entrance doors, French doors, and patio doors, wedge gaskets are subject to greater movement and potential abuse:

Select robust EPDM gaskets with good compression set resistance

Make sure gasket compression does not require excessive handle force, as doors must remain easy to operate (Approved Document M)

Check compatibility with threshold seals and brush strips for complete weather protection

For heavily used commercial doors, consider the duty cycle and maintenance intervals – higher-grade gaskets may pay for themselves in reduced call-backs and better in-service performance.

5.4 Cost vs performance

Wedge gaskets are relatively low-cost compared to the price of new windows or glass units, but the choice of profile can have a disproportionate impact on performance and customer satisfaction:

Very cheap, low-grade gaskets may harden, shrink, or crack within a few years

Well-formulated EPDM gaskets from reputable suppliers can last decades

Using the correct profile reduces fitting time and avoids call-backs due to leaks or draughts

For trade installers, specifying quality wedge gaskets from the outset supports compliance with UK performance standards and reduces warranty issues. DIY customers benefit from longer-lasting repairs and improved comfort. Window Hardware Store’s curated range of glazing wedge gaskets is selected with these considerations in mind.

5.5 Related products and complete refurbishment

When renewing wedge gaskets, it is often a good opportunity to consider other components in the same window or door set:

Sash and frame seals (bubble and flipper gaskets) – replacing these alongside wedge gaskets gives a complete draught-proofing solution

Espagnolette locks and shootbolts – from brands such as Yale, ERA, Mila and Avocet, ensuring secure locking and smooth operation

Friction stays and hinges – to maintain correct sash alignment and closing pressure on gaskets

Handles and letterplates – particularly on entrance doors where security and aesthetics are important

By combining high-quality wedge gaskets such as our black EPDM wedge glazing seal with upgraded hardware and seals, you can significantly improve the overall performance and lifespan of existing windows and doors without full replacement.

For further assistance, detailed product drawings, and trade pricing, visit the wedge gasket section of Window Hardware Store and explore compatible glazing gaskets, packers, and accessories tailored to UK window and door systems.