Complete Guide to Door Handles

Choosing and fitting the right door handles is essential for both the appearance and the performance of any door. Whether you are a trade installer working on multiple properties, or a homeowner upgrading a single front door, understanding door furniture will help you achieve a professional, compliant and long‑lasting result.

This guide from Window Hardware Store covers the main types of door handles used in the UK, how to measure existing handles for replacement, the difference between Euro profile and lever lock backplates, practical installation advice, and key security considerations. It applies to uPVC, composite, aluminium and timber doors commonly found in UK homes and commercial premises.

Throughout the guide you will find references to popular UK brands such as Yale, ERA, Mila, Avocet, Fab & Fix, Hoppe and others, as well as links to relevant categories such as our product category for door handles and specific options like lever handles.

1. Types of door handles

In the UK, “door handles” and “door furniture” cover a wide range of products, from simple internal latch handles to heavy‑duty external handles for multi‑point locking systems. Understanding the main types will help you select a handle that is compatible with your door, lock and usage.

1.1 By door material

The door material often determines the style and fixing method of the handle.

uPVC door handles

uPVC door handles are typically used on modern uPVC and composite doors with multi‑point locks (also called espagnolette or strip locks). Common features include:

Long backplate (often 200–300 mm in length) to cover the full handle/latch/lock area

92 mm PZ (distance from spindle centre to euro cylinder centre) as the most common UK size

Fixing screws that pass through the door and lock case to the opposite backplate

8 mm square spindle for the lever

Spring cassettes built into the handle backplate to return the lever to horizontal

Leading brands for replacement uPVC door handles include Yale, ERA, Mila, Avocet, Fab & Fix and Hoppe. You will find a wide range of finishes (white, polished chrome, satin chrome, gold, black, anthracite, stainless steel look, etc.) in our dedicated door handles category.

Composite door handles

Composite doors use similar hardware to uPVC doors, often with:

Multi‑point locking systems with Euro profile cylinders

Lever/lever or lever/pad handle sets

Thicker door slabs (often 44–70 mm), so longer fixing screws may be required

The same measuring rules for uPVC door handles apply to most composite doors, but always check door thickness and the manufacturer’s instructions, especially on PAS 24 or Secured by Design certified doors.

Aluminium door handles

Aluminium doors (often used in commercial properties, schools, shops and some modern homes) may use:

Narrow‑style (narrow backplate) handles for slim aluminium profiles

Pull handles on plates or on rose, with separate locking cylinders

Escape or panic hardware in commercial settings

These often need hardware compatible with specific aluminium systems. If in doubt, match the original brand and measurements carefully or consult technical data before ordering replacements.

Timber door handles

Timber doors (both external and internal) usually use more traditional door furniture. Typical types include:

Lever handles on backplate (latch, lock, Euro, or bathroom pattern)

Lever handles on rose with separate key escutcheons

Door knobs (mortice knobs or rim knobs)

External timber doors often use lever handles on a lock backplate (for a standard mortice sashlock), or lever handles on Euro profile plates when a Euro cylinder is fitted. Many heritage and period‑style options are available in brass, bronze, black iron and other finishes.

1.2 By operation type

Lever handles

Lever handles are the most common type of door handle in the UK. They are operated by pressing down on a lever, which turns a spindle to retract the latch.

Lever/lever handles: levers on both sides, commonly used on uPVC, composite and timber doors

Lever/pad handles: lever inside, fixed or semi‑fixed pad outside; often on front doors to prevent accidental opening

Lever on backplate: lever and backplate in one unit

Lever on rose: lever mounted on a round or square rose, with separate keyhole or cylinder escutcheons

You can browse various styles and finishes of lever handles suitable for internal and external doors.

Door knobs

Door knobs are round or shaped handles that are turned to operate the latch. They can be:

Mortice knobs: the knob is connected via a spindle passing through the door to a mortice latch

Rim knobs: the knob operates a surface‑mounted rim latch

Door knobs are more common on traditional timber doors and may be less suitable for uPVC or composite doors. They require more hand grip to operate and are not always ideal for accessibility.

Pull handles

Pull handles are grasped and pulled rather than turned. They are commonly used on:

Commercial aluminium doors (often with a concealed overhead closer and separate lock)

Modern residential front doors, especially when used with a separate key or electronic access

Patio and sliding doors

Pull handles can be bolt‑through fixed, back‑to‑back pairs, or face‑fixed depending on the door construction.

1.3 By backplate pattern

External lever handles on backplates are usually available in a few standard patterns, depending on the locking arrangement:

Latch: plain backplate with no keyhole or cylinder cut‑out; used with a tubular latch

Lever lock: backplate with a traditional keyhole profile (for a mortice sashlock with a 5‑pin or 5‑lever key)

Euro profile: backplate with a Euro cylinder cut‑out (for Euro profile cylinders and multi‑point or mortice locks)

Bathroom: backplate with turn and emergency release, used with a bathroom mortice lock or privacy latch

The distinction between Euro profile and lever lock patterns is especially important when replacing external door handles, and is covered in detail in section 3.

1.4 Door furniture sets

“Door furniture” often refers to the full set of items needed for a door, not just the handle. This can include:

Handles or knobs

Latch or lock (tubular latch, sashlock, deadlock, multi‑point lock)

Cylinder (Euro, oval or rim) where applicable

Hinges

Escutcheons, thumbturns, bathroom turns

Door closers, door viewers and letterplates (on entrance doors)

Many ranges from brands like ERA, Yale and Fab & Fix are “suited”, meaning you can match the finish and style across handles, letterplates, hinges and knockers for a coordinated look.

2. Measuring for replacement

Correct measuring is crucial when replacing door handles, particularly on uPVC and composite doors. Ordering a handle with the wrong PZ, fixing centres or backplate size can result in misaligned holes, poor operation or unsightly gaps.

Always remove one of the existing handles and measure it directly with a tape measure or vernier gauge where possible. Measuring “on the door” is possible but less accurate.

2.1 Key measurements for uPVC and composite door handles

Multi‑point door handles for uPVC and composite doors have a few critical dimensions:

PZ (centre distance between spindle and cylinder)

Fixing centres (distance between the main fixing screws)

Backplate overall length and width

Spindle size and door thickness

Measuring the PZ dimension

The PZ is the distance in millimetres between the centre of the handle spindle and the centre of the key cylinder. This is measured horizontally, spindle centre to cylinder centre.

Common UK PZ sizes include:

92 mm PZ – by far the most common on modern uPVC and composite doors

70 mm PZ – often found on older uPVC doors

68 mm PZ – occasionally used on certain aluminium or specialist locks

72 mm PZ – sometimes used on timber doors with Euro profile mortice locks

To measure:

Remove the handle from the door if possible

Measure from the centre of the square spindle hole to the centre of the circular cylinder hole

Record the measurement to the nearest millimetre (e.g. 92 mm)

Measuring the fixing centres

Fixing centres are the distance between the main screws that secure one backplate to the other through the door and lock case.

To measure:

Identify the two main fixing holes (often one above and one below the lever)

Measure from the centre of the top fixing hole to the centre of the bottom fixing hole

Record this distance (e.g. 122 mm, 211 mm, etc.)

Many replacement uPVC door handles are designed with elongated or adjustable fixing slots to accommodate a range of fixing centres, but you should still aim for the closest possible match.

Backplate and lever dimensions

While PZ and fixing centres are critical for compatibility, other dimensions affect appearance and comfort:

Backplate length (top to bottom)

Backplate width

Lever length and projection from the door

These can vary between brands and ranges. Check that any replacement backplate will cover existing screw holes and marks on the door.

Spindle length and door thickness

The spindle is usually 8 mm square on UK external handles. You may need to trim the spindle to suit the door thickness. Common door thicknesses are:

44 mm for typical timber external doors

35–40 mm for many internal doors

44–70 mm for uPVC and composite doors, depending on profile and panel design

Most handle sets are supplied with a standard spindle suitable for typical residential doors. For very thick doors, a longer spindle may be required.

2.2 Measuring timber door handles

Lever lock handles on timber doors

For lever handles with a keyhole (lever lock pattern) on a timber external door, the key measurements are:

Distance from spindle centre to keyhole centre (backset relationship)

Backplate size (height x width)

Fixing hole positions

Most timber lever lock handles are designed to suit standard UK mortice sashlocks (commonly with 57 mm or 48 mm backsets), so the spindle and keyhole relationship is generally standard. However, older properties and imported locks may differ.

Euro profile handles on timber doors

For Euro profile backplates on timber doors, you must ensure that the Euro cylinder cut‑out aligns correctly with the mortice lock’s cylinder hole. Measure:

Centre of spindle to centre of Euro cylinder (often 72 mm PZ on timber mortice locks)

Backplate dimensions and fixing positions

If you are replacing handles while keeping the existing mortice lock and cylinder, replica measurements are essential to avoid filling and re‑drilling the door.

2.3 Measuring internal door handles

Internal door handles are generally simpler to measure and replace:

Check whether the handle is on a backplate or on a rose

Measure the backplate size or rose diameter

Check spindle size (usually 8 mm for UK internal handles)

Check screw hole positions, especially if you want to cover old marks

The latch case backset (commonly 44 mm or 57 mm from door edge to spindle centre) is usually unaffected when changing handles, as most lever handles on rose or backplate will work with standard tubular latches.

2.4 Practical trade tips when measuring

From a trade and installer perspective, a few practical points can save call‑backs and wasted site visits:

Always take photos of the existing handle in situ (inside and outside) before removal

Photograph or note any brand marks on the existing handle or lock strip (e.g. Yale, ERA, Mila, Avocet, GU, Maco, Winkhaus)

If working on multiple doors, label each handle and its measurements clearly

Check whether the door is left‑ or right‑handed for certain lever/pad sets (some are handed)

For uPVC handles, check whether the external lever is fixed, sprung or non‑sprung

When in doubt, bringing the old handle into a trade counter or contacting a specialist supplier with photos and measurements is often the quickest route to an exact match.

3. Euro profile vs lever lock

One of the most important distinctions in external door furniture is between Euro profile handles and lever lock handles. Choosing the wrong type can mean your handle does not match the lock and cylinder in the door.

3.1 What is a Euro profile handle?

A Euro profile handle has a backplate with a shaped cut‑out designed to take a Euro profile cylinder. The key cylinder passes through the handle backplate and the door, into a lock case or multi‑point lock.

The cut‑out is an “hourglass” or “keyhole” shape specific to Euro cylinders, and the cylinder is usually retained by a single fixing screw through the lock case.

Euro profile handles are commonly used on:

uPVC and composite doors with multi‑point locks

Timber doors fitted with Euro profile mortice locks

Aluminium and commercial doors with Euro cylinders

Security is often enhanced by using security door handles with anti‑snap protection around the cylinder, in combination with a 3‑star or 1‑star cylinder in accordance with TS 007 and PAS 24 where applicable.

3.2 What is a lever lock handle?

A lever lock handle (sometimes just called a “lock handle”) has a traditional keyhole shape on the backplate, intended for use with a standard mortice sashlock operated by a multi‑lever (e.g. 5‑lever) or cylinder rim lock.

The key enters the mortice lock directly via the keyhole in the door and backplate, rather than through a separate Euro cylinder. These are most often found on older timber front and back doors, although they are still commonly used in modern joinery.

3.3 Visual identification

If you are unsure which type you have, a quick visual check will usually identify it:

Euro profile: key goes into a removable cylinder; visible metal cylinder plug around the keyhole; the shape of the keyhole in the handle plate matches a Euro cylinder

Lever lock: keyhole is cut directly through the door and lock; no separate cylinder visible; shape is a traditional “skeleton key” style on the backplate

On uPVC and composite doors, you will almost always see a Euro cylinder (often with a visible oval or square‑ended barrel) projecting slightly from the handle backplate.

3.4 When to choose Euro profile vs lever lock

If the door already has a Euro cylinder and multi‑point lock or Euro mortice lock, you must use Euro profile handles

If the door has a traditional mortice sashlock without a Euro cylinder, you should use lever lock handles

New timber exterior doors increasingly use Euro profile locks for improved security and flexibility (e.g. key‑key, key‑thumbturn, master keying), so Euro profile handles are a good long‑term choice

For heritage or period projects where traditional keys and locks are preferred, lever lock handles remain appropriate

From a security and regulatory standpoint, especially where compliance with PAS 24 or Approved Document Q of the Building Regulations is required (e.g. on new‑build properties), Euro profile locks and cylinders with correctly rated hardware are usually preferred.

3.5 Common problems and mistakes

Typical issues seen on site include:

Ordering lever lock handles to replace Euro profile handles (or vice versa) – the cut‑out will not match the existing lock

Assuming any Euro profile handle will fit – in reality, PZ and fixing centres must still match

Mixing BS 3621 traditional mortice deadlocks with Euro profile handles – these are different systems; make sure the lock and handle types are compatible

Fitting non‑security Euro handles on doors that require PAS 24 performance – use appropriate security furniture and cylinders

If you are upgrading an older timber door from a lever lock mortice to a Euro profile lock, be prepared for additional joinery work: the lock case size, keyhole position and cylinder hole may all differ, and the new handle backplate may not fully cover the old keyhole.

4. Installation guide

Fitting door handles ranges from a simple like‑for‑like swap to more complex work involving latch or lock replacement. The following guidance covers typical replacement scenarios for uPVC/composite and timber doors. Always follow the specific manufacturer’s instructions provided with the product.

4.1 Tools and preparation

Common tools required for most door handle installations include:

Posi‑drive or Philips screwdriver (and flat‑head where needed)

Tape measure or ruler (in millimetres)

Pencil and masking tape for marking

Hacksaw or junior hacksaw (for trimming spindles and screws)

Drill and bits (if new holes are required)

Chisels and hammer (for timber doors, when adjusting latch or lock faceplates)

Before starting:

Confirm you have the correct replacement handles (PZ, fixing centres, hand, finish)

Check for any special instructions for fire doors or PAS 24‑rated doors (relevant standards include BS EN 1906 for lever handles and BS EN 1634 for fire resistance)

Protect the door surface with masking tape if you need to mark or drill near finished surfaces

4.2 Replacing uPVC or composite external door handles

This is one of the most common DIY and trade tasks. A straightforward like‑for‑like replacement typically takes 10–20 minutes per door.

Step‑by‑step procedure

Open the door and secure it in the open position so it cannot swing shut while you work.

On the inside handle, locate the two main fixing screws (one above and one below the lever). There may be additional face‑fixed screws, but these are usually decorative.

Using a suitable screwdriver, remove the fixing screws while supporting the outside handle with your other hand to prevent it dropping.

Gently pull the internal and external handle assemblies away from the door. The spindle and any spring cassettes will come away with them.

Note the orientation of the spindle and any support lugs or packers used. Take photos if necessary for reference.

Measure the old handles (PZ, fixing centres, backplate size) and confirm they match the new handles.

Offer up the new external handle to the door, aligning the spindle hole with the lock’s follower (spindle hole) and the cylinder cut‑out with the Euro cylinder.

Insert the new spindle through the handle and lock. For some handles, you may need to cut the spindle to length: it should engage fully with both internal and external handle followers without protruding excessively.

Fit any spring cassettes or support plates as instructed by the manufacturer.

Place the internal handle onto the spindle and align it with the fixing holes.

Insert the new fixing screws from the inside, through the handle and lock, into the threaded bosses on the external handle backplate. Tighten them evenly, alternating between top and bottom to draw the plates together squarely.

Before fully tightening, check the lever action: ensure it returns to horizontal cleanly and that the latch retracts and extends smoothly.

With the door open, operate the handle and lock several times, including locking and unlocking the cylinder, to ensure everything functions correctly.

Close the door and test again from both sides, checking for any binding or misalignment.

Trade tips for uPVC handle replacement

If the new handle backplate is slightly narrower than the old one, old paint lines or marks may be visible. Discuss this with the customer in advance or select a handle with a suitably large backplate.

Do not overtighten fixing screws: this can distort the uPVC skin or composite face, causing the lock to bind or the handle to stiffen.

If the lever does not return to horizontal, check whether the handle or the lock case provides the springing. On older locks the internal springs may be worn; in these cases, use handles with strong spring cassettes.

If the cylinder projects too far beyond the new handle, consider fitting an appropriately sized cylinder for improved security and appearance (ideally with anti‑snap protection to TS 007 standards).

4.3 Replacing lever handles on timber doors

Replacing internal and external lever handles on timber doors is usually more straightforward, particularly when you are retaining the existing latch or lock.

Replacing internal latch handles

Wedge the door open so it does not move while you work.

On one side, locate the fixing screws (commonly two, through the face of the backplate or rose).

Remove the screws and take off the handle and backplate or rose. Repeat on the other side.

Withdraw the spindle from the latch.

Check the new handle’s rose or backplate and screw hole positions. If they match, you can reuse the existing holes; if not, you may need to fill and redrill.

Insert the new spindle through the latch. Cut to length if necessary so that it engages both handles correctly.

Fit one side of the new handle onto the spindle, align with the screw holes and loosely fix with the screws provided.

Fit the opposite handle and loosely fix.

Test the handle operation, ensuring the latch retracts fully and the lever returns to horizontal.

Tighten screws fully, being careful not to strip threads in softwood doors.

Replacing external lever lock or Euro handles on timber doors

Unlock the door and open it fully, securing it open.

Remove the old handles as above, noting the position of the keyhole or Euro cut‑out relative to the latch spindle.

If you are changing from lever lock to Euro profile (or vice versa), you may need to change the mortice lock as well to maintain compatibility. This may also require enlarging or repositioning the lock case and forend plate cut‑outs.

Offer up the new handle to the door and mark any new fixing holes with a pencil.

Drill pilot holes for the new fixing screws to reduce the risk of splitting the timber.

If installing a Euro cylinder, drill or enlarge the cylinder hole through the door, ensuring the cylinder projects only as much as necessary beyond the handle backplate (typically 2–3 mm).

Fit the lock or sashlock first, then fit the Euro cylinder (if applicable), securing it with the cylinder retaining screw through the lock case.

Fit the new handles using the supplied spindle and screws. Check that the key and/or cylinder operate freely without fouling the backplate.

Test locking, unlocking and handle operation with the door open, then closed, ensuring smooth function.

4.4 Fitting new handles and latches in a fresh timber door

On new doors, you will typically need to:

Mark the desired handle height (commonly around 1000–1050 mm from finished floor level for domestic doors)

Drill a spindle hole through the door edge to the marked centre line

Mortice out and fit a tubular latch or mortice lock at the correct backset (e.g. 44 mm or 57 mm)

Chisel in the latch or lock faceplate flush with the door edge

Mark and fix the handle backplates or roses, drilling pilot holes for screws

Fit and align the strike plate in the frame, checking that the latch engages correctly

For fire doors (FD30, FD60), pay particular attention to the manufacturer’s guidance and any fire test evidence for the hardware. Use suitable intumescent kits and hardware that has been tested to BS EN 1634 or equivalent.

4.5 Common problems and how to solve them

Handle sagging downwards: often caused by weak or failed springs in the handle or lock. Solution: fit handles with strong spring cassettes or replace the lock if its follower spring has failed.

Stiff operation or difficulty turning the handle: may indicate misalignment between the lock and keeps, swollen doors, overtightened fixing screws, or a failing lock mechanism. Solution: loosen screws slightly to test, adjust keeps, or service/replace the lock.

Loose handle backplate: screws may be stripped or backing material may be damaged. Solution: use longer screws into sound timber, or repair the substrate (e.g. with wood filler and redrilling for internal doors).

Cylinder not turning smoothly after handle replacement: the handle backplate might be pressing on the cylinder, or the cylinder is slightly misaligned. Solution: loosen screws, adjust position, ensure the cylinder is correctly seated and not overtightened.

New handle does not cover old holes: select a handle with a larger backplate, professionally fill and repaint the area, or fit a decorative escutcheon to conceal old holes where appropriate.

5. Security considerations

Door handles play a major role in the overall security of a door set, particularly on entrance doors. While the lock and cylinder are the primary security components, the handle must protect them and withstand attack and everyday use.

5.1 UK standards and regulations

Several key standards and schemes are relevant to door handles and associated hardware in the UK:

BS EN 1906 – covers performance requirements for lever handles and knobs

BS 3621 – covers thief‑resistant lock assemblies for doors (mainly mortice deadlocks and sashlocks)

TS 007 – Kitemarked standard relating to enhanced security of cylinders and protective door furniture (often specified as 3‑star cylinder or 1‑star cylinder plus 2‑star security hardware)

PAS 24 – enhanced security performance requirements for doorsets and windows of dwellings

Secured by Design (SBD) – police security initiative requiring compliance with PAS 24 or equivalent for external doors and windows

Approved Document Q (Building Regulations) – sets minimum security requirements for doors and windows in new dwellings in England

When replacing door handles on new‑build or recently certified doors, it is important not to compromise the door’s overall security rating. If the door was originally PAS 24 tested as a complete doorset, you should replace hardware with components of equivalent or higher performance.

5.2 Anti‑snap and high‑security handles

Lock snapping (attacking the Euro cylinder to gain entry) remains one of the more common forced entry methods on uPVC and composite doors. To combat this, manufacturers offer:

Anti‑snap Euro cylinders (e.g. Yale Platinum, Avocet ABS, ERA Fortress, Mila ProSecure) tested to TS 007 and often carrying a 3‑star Kitemark

Security door handles with reinforced plates, cylinder shrouds/sleeves, hardened fixing bolts and anti‑drill features

Security handles typically include:

A steel or hardened backplate concealed beneath the decorative cover

A protected cylinder cut‑out to prevent or delay access to the cylinder body

Through‑bolts with tamper‑resistant heads, accessible only from inside

Some form of attack resistance around the lever pivot and fixing points

On high‑risk external doors, fitting a 2‑star security handle with a 1‑star or 3‑star cylinder (to meet TS 007 effectively) is strongly recommended. Many PAS 24 and Secured by Design doorsets use this combination.

5.3 Handle design and forced entry resistance

The physical design and quality of the handle influence how easily an intruder can gain leverage to attack the lock:

Shorter lever projections and smoother designs can reduce the opportunity to grip tools around the handle

Robust fixing methods and concealed fixings make it harder to pull handles off the door

Harder materials and quality plating help resist prying and drilling attacks

Budget handles may be suitable for internal or low‑risk secondary doors, but for main entrance doors you should consider higher‑grade door furniture with independently tested performance ratings.

5.4 Escape, fire and egress considerations

While security is important, safety and ease of escape in an emergency are equally critical. For certain doors, particularly:

Escape routes from flats and HMOs

Doors on designated escape corridors

Final exit doors in commercial or public buildings

you may be required to provide a means of escape without the use of a key. This often means:

Lever handles that operate the latch and lock from the inside without a key (e.g. euro cylinder with internal thumbturn)

Compliance with relevant fire regulations and risk assessments

In some cases, panic hardware such as push bars or touch bars (to BS EN 1125) instead of standard handles

When replacing handles on such doors, ensure you do not downgrade the escape function. For front doors of individual dwellings, thumbturn Euro cylinders combined with suitable handles provide a good balance between security and keyless internal egress.

5.5 Environmental durability and maintenance

Door handles are exposed to weather, coastal conditions, cleaning agents and everyday wear. Over time, this can affect both appearance and performance.

Coastal or high‑pollution areas: choose stainless steel or PVD‑coated finishes where possible, or marine‑grade hardware specifically rated for such environments.

Regular cleaning: use mild soapy water and a soft cloth; avoid abrasive pads and harsh chemicals that can damage plating or lacquer.

Lubrication: lightly lubricate moving parts (spindle, springs, lock follower) with a suitable lock or hinge lubricant; avoid over‑oiling, which can attract dirt.

Periodic checks: ensure all screws remain tight, handles operate smoothly and there are no signs of corrosion or cracking.

Trade installers should consider specifying higher‑grade finishes (e.g. stainless steel or premium PVD) on coastal or exposed sites to reduce call‑backs due to pitting or discolouration.

5.6 Matching handles with other security hardware

For the best overall performance, consider the full door hardware package:

High‑security Euro cylinder matched with a compatible security handle

Multi‑point lock or mortice lock appropriate to the door and frame material

Hinges with security features (e.g. hinge bolts, security pins) on outward‑opening doors

Letterplate that meets TS 008 (where required) to resist fishing and manipulation

Door viewer, chain or limiter for occupant safety

By using coordinated door furniture from reputable brands such as Yale, ERA, Mila, Avocet or Fab & Fix, you can achieve a professional finish that balances security, durability and style. Browse our door handles and related hardware to build a complete package tailored to your door type and security needs.